Cape Escape: Why Martha's Vineyard Should Be Your Next Summer Destination
For my birthday this year, Scott gifted me a week at an adorable cottage in Martha’s Vineyard. Scott, being classic Scott, profusely apologized for the next eight weeks between my birthday and our trip for not getting me something to unwrap on the day of, to which I had to assure him, “Don’t be silly! This is going to be so much better than anything you could fit in a box!” Having just returned home from said vacation, I stand by my comments. A weeklong trip to Martha’s Vineyard is better than anything you can put a bow on.
After an oppressively sticky week of weather in New York City, the cool Atlantic breeze on the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard was just what the doctor ordered. The insanely charming cottage that Scott booked on VRBO was somehow even more adorable in person. It was in Aquinnah on the west end of the island, and we even had a few friends scheduled to pop in throughout the week. I thought, perfect.
For the first few days “on island,” we were blessed with perfect weather, which felt like a sign to spend that time on one of Martha’s Vineyard’s gorgeous beaches. First up, we chose Moshup Beach, which was only a short drive from our cottage in Aquinnah. After a ten-minute trek along a well-maintained trail boasting views of Gay Head Lighthouse (the jokes, they write themselves, folks), we arrived at a seashore complete with crashing waves and epic colorful clay cliffs. The beach felt quite remote — our own little sandy patch of paradise. After about another ten minutes of walking along the shore, we learned that we’d stumbled upon Massachusetts’ only clothing-optional beach! So did we do as the Romans do? Guess you’ll have to keep wondering! We had such a nice time that first day, that we returned the next. It ended up becoming our favorite beach we visited all week.
Our friends Peter, Tom, Paul, and Matt (I know, I know, only a few more and we’ll have a complete set of apostles) were able to make the trek from the city to visit us for a long weekend. I can’t tell you how much of a treat it was to have them around. There’s nothing like waking up early in the morning, filling up a collection of mismatched mugs with strong coffee, and discussing plans for the day with your friends. Together, we hunted for berries and tomatoes at various farm stands, dove off docks into the surprisingly not-so-frigid waters, and made great dinners and conversation together.
I think my favorite memory of the trip was the night all six of us went out for dinner at Outermost Inn. Nestled on the westernmost point of Martha's Vineyard, the Inn boasts sweeping ocean views and a serene, rustic charm. Specializing in farm-to-table cuisine, their menu highlights the freshest local seafood and seasonal produce, offering dishes like fried lobster legs, chilled corn chowder, and local scallops. The evening began with oysters and drinks on the lawn, with Gay Head Lighthouse (there she is again :P) in the distance, setting the perfect backdrop. The pièce de résistance was watching the sunset in the distance while enjoying a delicious tasting menu and laughing and catching up with our friends.
Once the boys headed back to New York, Scott and I had the place to ourselves. So with the sun out and my summer mixtape blasting, we hopped in the Jeep for a day of sightseeing. Our first stop was Vineyard Haven, a charming harbor town. First things first — we needed iced coffee, which we found at Waterside Market. Then we wandered into Bunch of Grapes Bookstore and Island Vintage where I picked up some seriously cute pieces that I can’t wait to show off this summer. Next, we headed over to Oak Bluffs, the liveliest of the MV towns, where we toured the “Gingerbread Houses” before grabbing a clam strips lunch (my favorite Cape Cod dish) at Lookout Tavern. Finally, with the sun still shining, we drove to the far east end of the island to visit Edgartown. If you were to close your eyes and picture Cape Cod, you would probably be drawing Edgartown in your mind — colonial homes, hydrangeas, and picket fences draped with bunting. Despite still being full from lunch, we picked up a couple of scoops of ice cream from Mad Martha’s and managed to keep most of it from dripping on our shirts.
The one thing I absolutely wanted to do while visiting Cape Cod was to make some kind of outrageous clam bake. I turned to my domestic goddess and queen of the WASPs, Ina Garten. Her kitchen clambake was exactly what I’d been dreaming of — mountains of littleneck clams, steamers, mussels, peel-and-eat shrimp, and lobsters. We were able to source all this seafood at Larsen’s Fish Market in a picturesque harbor town called Menemsha. For you JAWS aficionados, this is one of the main filming locations that they use whenever you see a fishing village. The seafood was as fresh and tasty and getting to enjoy it all with a view of the ocean from our window just made everything look and taste better. I swear, my fingers still smell like butter!
While we spent a few days exploring and checking out some local businesses and farms like Grey’s Farm and Bettlebung, most of our time on island was spent either at the beach or back home at our cottage whipping up elaborate meals. Anyone who knows me, knows I love entertaining, so I came armed with a coterie of summer recipes that I wanted to try out on Scott and our friends. A few of my favorites were Melissa Clark’s Gingery Grilled Chicken Thighs with Charred Peaches, Sam Sifton’s Blueberry Pie, Alison Roman’s Pasta Salad with Zucchini, Sizzled Scallion and Parmesan, and anything grilled with John Stamos’s Greek Marinade (yes, that John Stamos and no, don’t knock it til you try it!)
By the end of our stay, it was hard to say goodbye. We’d gotten so used to the carefree lifestyle of the Vineyard. Unlike Provincetown, where I always feel the pull to party, or The Hamptons where the environment is decidedly scene-y, Martha’s vineyard feels so much breezier. I didn’t feel like I was missing out if I spent an afternoon reading a book while Scott baked a blueberry pie. From the colorful cliffs at Moshup Beach, to savoring seafood plucked right out of the bay, to exploring all the adorable villages dotting the coast, I was ready to cement Martha’s Vineyard as one of my new all-time favorite summer vacation spots.
Where We Stayed
Aquinnah Cottage: Our charming home base on the west end of the island.
What We Did
Moshup Beach: Epic views of Gay Head Lighthouse, colorful clay cliffs, clothing-optional
Lobsterville Beach: Small, sweet beach, only a short walk from our cottage
Vineyard Haven: charming harbor town with quaint shops and local culture.
Oak Bluffs: liveliest town on Martha's Vineyard, known for its colorful "Gingerbread Houses”
Edgartown: picturesque town that epitomizes Cape Cod charm with its colonial homes, hydrangeas, and picket fences.
Where we shopped
Island Vintage: Incredible collection of pieces, mostly from 70’s, 80’s and 90’s
Bunch of Grapes Bookstore: Cozy bookstore with friendly cat
Grey Barn: Gorgeous luxury farm with chickens and rabbits, specialty foods and coffee stand
Beetlebung Farm: Great selection of very fresh produce including heirloom tomatoes
Larsen’s Fish Market: Incredible fresh seafood in a cinematic vacation
Where We Ate
Outermost Inn: Sunset dinner in Aquinnah.
Waterside Market: Iced coffee in Vineyard Haven.
Lookout Tavern: Clam strips lunch and beers in Oak Bluffs.
Mad Martha’s: Ice cream in Edgartown.