I stayed at the White Lotus hotel in Sicily so you don't have to (though you're gonna want to!)
You know the scene — you’re watching the first episode of season two of White Lotus. Ten minutes in and you realize your MacBook has not only made it onto your lap, but there’s a tab open for flights to Sicily. We've all been there, captivated by the allure of a far-off destination, immortalized impossibly on screen. Typically, that's where the story ends for me. A wistful dream. An unmarked entry on a never-ending travel bucket list. But this time, I broke the cycle – those Hollywood dreams were about to be materialized into reality.
Fast forward a few months, and there I was, stepping off the plane in Sicily, barely able to contain my excitement. My expectations were pretty high for Taormina, the town depicted in the series. Over the course of ten episodes, I’d fallen in love with Taormina as well as the Four Seasons: San Domenico Palace, the main location for the series.
But, hold up! I work in the film industry. I’m no fool. I’ve seen an art director turn a crappy college dorm room into a chic SoHo loft. With the right creative eye, you can transform any dusty space into a dream destination. So, you can imagine my surprise when I discovered that Taormina not only met the expectations of beauty set in White Lotus, but blew them out of the water.
Now, join me as I give you an up close look at the “White Lotus Hotel” and the beautiful town it’s housed in, Taormina. From ancient ruins to mouthwatering culinary delights, this coastal paradise had something new around every corner.
So first things first. The question everyone asked me the second I touched down back in America — was the Four Seasons San Domenico like it is in White Lotus? The answer is yes…mostly. Immediately upon checking in, I noticed how seemingly familiar everything was to the fictional White Lotus hotel TV — from the outfits worn by the staff, to the iconic Sicilian ceramic head statues dotting every corner, the HBO art team clearly took inspiration directly from the hotel’s established aesthetic. The rooms looked identical, the pool, just as beautiful, even the piano player during happy hour — suspiciously similar-looking to the gal on the HBO show. As for the location itself? This is where there is a slight deviance. Parts of the show, including the infamous first scene, take place on a beach, seemingly next to the hotel. So yeah, no beach here. Those scenes were actually shot in Cefalù, a few hours drive away on the northern part of Sicily. The San Domenico sits high on top of a cliff, which makes for dramatic views from the infinity pool, but there is a thousand foot drop down to the water, making it extremely treacherous for walkable beach access.
But more about the hotel itself. Originally home to a Dominican monastery dating back to the 14th century, the hotel is a perfect mix of beautifully preserved history and modern luxury. Personal favs include the infinity pool overlooking the Ionian Sea — a perfect spot for spotting toxic hot British boys (sadly, none on our trip) — and the Michelin-star restaurant with some of the most amazing contemporary Italian cuisine — though unfortunately, no Oreo cookie cake. Iykyk. All of this was paired with top-tier customer relations (no surprise there as the Four Season brand is in a league of its own when it comes to hospitality).
Exhausted from the trip, we spent out first afternoon and evening at the hotel. Wandering through the gardens and eating at the restaurant. The next morning we woke up recharged, setting out on foot. First we hit up Piazza IX Aprile, the heart of Taormina, taking in the panoramic views of Mount Etna in the distance. It happens to be the world’s most active volcano and our trip was nearly interrupted as it had just erupted a few days earlier! Yikes!
Then we headed over to the ruins of the Greek Amphitheater, one of the oldest theatre venues in the Mediterranean dating back to the third century BCE. Much of the original theater is intact and it wasn’t hard to imagine the performances that once played there thousands of years ago. Built a the top of a hill, it also provides one of the best vantage points of the city.
From there we wandered over to Villa Comunale di Taormina, a serene park just outside the busy town center. For dinner we grabbed pizza at La Napoletana, the sweetest little restaurant built on a set of stairs in a narrow alley. Nightfall brought a whole new feel to Taormina, its streets bathed in soft yellow light — a perfect end to our first day here.
As mentioned before, The Four Season’s doesn’t have it’s own beach, but beach access is only a short drive away. Luckily, we were able to check out Nuova Spiaggia Paradiso, a newly renovated beach club. This place was a real slice of heaven, complete with beach cabanas, a sparkling pool, and a restaurant with some of the freshest fish I’ve ever eaten. But the real star of the show was Brutus, the owner’s giant mastiff. He followed us around all day, lazing beside us on the beach and while we sipped wine at lunch.
For our final day in Taormina, we hiked to the Chiesa Madonna della Rocca, a beautiful little church perched high above the town. The trail is entirely made up of stairs and about ten switchbacks up the cliff. We made the mistake of waiting until mid-day, which meant the Sicilian sun was at its hottest, but the stunning panoramic views at the top made every step worth it.
From the summit, we could see all of Taormina spread out below us — the azure sea, terracotta rooftops, and the imposing silhouette of the volcano Mount Etna in the distance. To celebrate our ascent, (and to cool down), we stopped for granitas at a very conveniently located little drink stand right at the top. Let me tell you, after a grueling hike on a grueling day, there’s nothing more refreshing than an icy little bowl of fruit juice. It was a perfect end to our time in Taormina.
What surprised me most about the trip was how both the San Domenico and the town of Taormina was able to guard itself from the inevitable onslaught of White Lotus fan tourists. The hotel never felt crowded, (often times we were the only people at the pool), and while the town of Taormina got a bit busy during the afternoon with daytrippers, they were mostly gone by sunset. Turns out, we were probably those annoying fans. We were the one’s giggling and pointing (albeit quietly) every time we spotted a filming location, like the place where Valentina gets her morning espresso, or the spot where Harper and Ethan nearly get caught making out. The remoteness of the town and the admittedly steep room rates have thankfully kept this gem of a destination just as special as it was before HBO made it famous.